Media Analysis: The State of e-zines today

The internet is a major source across the globe that we have all got access to. Even if we don’t have internet in our homes, there are many internet cafes on the high streets. Technology is a big part of our lives; I mean everyone these days has the latest mobile phone, the new and exclusive playstation or the new sleek blackberry. And if your anything like me, your blackberry becomes a status of who you are as a person; mine is filled with web pages and emails from fashion websites. These days when I want to find the latest news, or buy the new "IT BAG", I don’t bother to go to the store, I usually just source all these things on the internet. While currently studying Fashion Journalism at university, I find myself reading many newspapers daily and constantly flicking through magazines. But why should I buy so many editorial publications in print, when I can just as well source these editorial pieces online. Style.com for example is one of my favourite websites to log on to. On their website I can research the latest trends, discover new fashion shows across the globe, and read up on the latest fashion gossip. Being such an informative and interactive website, Style.com provides me with the ultimate resources I need. Comparing this website to a publication such as Vogue, I would say Style.com provides a more critical analysis of what is in or not in fashion. I mean who can blame me for wanting to source free and well-written articles online, rather than buy a magazine or a newspaper daily/weekly. Another website which I find very useful is nytimes.com. Style articles on this website are written in great context, and provide relevant information on many designer labels including Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein and Louis Vuitton. This website which seems to be updated regularly is a perfect source for journalists. Don’t get me wrong, I am not saying it is a waste of time buying magazines, because there are many great ones out there such as Amelia, Harpers Bazaar and Wallpaper but the internet is still very useful. The power of e-zines are clearly successful, and when the internet becomes apart of a discussion it is quite hard for the other topic to compete. Another website which seems to always amaze me is Vmagazine.com. A cheaper resource to visionaire magazine, but a very useful and interactive website featuring brilliant photography. I remember seeing a picture featuring a dress and necklace by Maison Martin Margiela taken by Glen Luchford that left me speechless. It was just a photo, but the way it was taken made it a fabulous photo. This website is great for looking at various fashion images by renowned photographers. And by not being able to afford the magazine personally, it is great to discover the best features online.

Fashion Journalism week 7: The Curvy Approach

Picture taken of the Alexander McQueen belt, Agent Provacateur Corset and a body con dress shown at the Preen show.

Fashion Journalism week 7: The Curvy Approach

So it turns out that women today are embracing their curves, and are happy to showcase them with waist cinching belts and figure hugging bodices. The belt has turned into a key accessory this season, with fashionistas wearing them over chunky knitwear to help create a waist, over last season’s coats and jackets to update their look, and smock dresses; creating a unique look of their own. Not only are these chunky style belts being sold in nearly every high street store, but designers have well and truly picked up on this trend. Burberry has created a gorgeous adjustable black leather corset belt, with triple buckle detail, priced at £395; this belt is well worth every penny. While Alexander McQueen has designed a sleek contempory crocodile belt worth £3,200, and let’s not forget the unforgettable and adorable wide butterfly belt by Paul and Joe at £270. As I walk through Soho, I find myself standing outside Agent Provocateur. With their delicately defined raunchy window, showcasing gorgeous sexy underwear, I proceed inside. As I identify the body con/ curvy approach on the streets from the outside image, I start to think about the amount of pressure woman go through trying to create that sleek smooth curvy look on the inside; beyond the clothes you can say. Magic Knickers or the fitted body suits in Marks & Spencers are some great lingerie pieces to hold our wobbly bits in, but the Corset is also a cute and sexy way to do it to. Agent Provocateur have a selection of plain black corsets, in many sizes, with great stitch finishing’s. Also Coco De Mer in Convert Garden is great for reinventing the curvaceous look with there selection of corsets on sale. But let’s not forget the woman who is great for creating this look; the only women who creates such a sexy look in a sophisticated way; that is Dita Von Teese.

Emma Hope Boutique

Picture taken of the Emma Hope store in Westbourne

Grove and the Sock shoe sold in store.

Fashion Journalism week 6: Emma Hope

As I catch a glimpse at all the woman who walk past me through Westbourne Grove, I am not at all amazed how prestige, elegant and how rich they all look. With Cartier diamonds locked around their wrists, Hermes bags fastened underneath their arms, and Christian Louboutin shoes christened at their feet, I feel as if I am at a live outdoor runway show. But what I notice more about these woman, are the accessories, and my eyes suddenly drop straight to their feet. The "shoe boot" which is becoming increasingly more popular off and on the runway, is seen everywhere. At Kurt Geiger the shoe boot is designed in patent black, structured with 4" heels and an amazing gold buckling detail at the side, while Jimmy Choo promotes their gorgeous triple buckle shoe boot in there window on Bond street, and lets not forget Christian Louboutin shoe boot with the unforgettable and magnificent red sole. As I walk into Emma Hope- A small shoe boutique on Westbourne Grove, I feel as if I have entered the world of the shoe trend. This small open plan boutique based on two floors delivers a range of Ballet Pumps, Boots, Day Shoes, Evening Shoes, Platforms, Sneakers, Men’s shoes, Bags and Accessories. But my eyes take a sudden glare towards a pair of round ballet sock boots. To make it sound simple, attached these patent black leather ballet shoes are knee high woollen socks; two trends in one. Priced at £319 these shoes are absolutely amazing, they are a perfect practical design for winter. With their fabulous collection of shoes, their boots also draw me to temptation. The chocolate brown knee high boots, with a gold buckle detail priced at £459 is a great winter investment. And with the boots also comes the brown and white landscape buckle bag in pony hair available for £489. Now although the prices seem quite high, the collection of shoes and accessories are amazing with a fantastic finishing detail. And this is a boutique which seems to be well on trend in terms of accessorising.

So why not splash a little?

Media Analysis: Fashion And Music

A lecture today with Daryoush Haj-Najafi turned into an open discussion, following debates and opinions based on music and fashion. This was one of many lectures that got me interested in joining in. We began by assessing mainstream magazines such as NME, Man About Town and Interview; and then gradually we started talking about less familiar publications such as Friends (a much more psychedelic magazine in the 60s and early 70s), The Beat Generation (this magazine focused more on music and the rock and roll culture) and Playboy (a magazine, which believe it or not use to be more literate than Paris reviews). We then progressed on to talking about the history behind magazines today; which then led us to a discussions based on Raf Simons- (most famous for his collection on terrorists and the UFO), Hedi Slimane- (acknowledge for pushing skinny jeans on men), Walter Van Beirendonk-(was new rave before new rave even existed. His 80s collection made him more famous), Tierry Muglar-(known for his extreme fantasy collections), Cassette Player-(she combines this highly conceptual world with music and is mostly famous for styling MIA) and Kim Jones-(her style draws on from being happy and draws on an image of a cartoon world). As I continued to take notes throughout the lecture I couldn’t help but wonder; does music influence fashion? Or does fashion influence music? I mean take Cassette Player and Hedi Slimane for instance. Both designers get their inspiration from music, and when you think about it, can fashion or music ever rely without each other.

Fashion Journalism week 5: Fair Trade

(Picture take from People Tree website- IFAT members in Peru)

As everyone who lives in London may no; winter feels as if it is finally coming. As I walk the streets, the rapid cold brisk wind brushes through my hair and the sudden urge to go back home, light the fire and make a creamy hot chocolate is awfully tempting. But instead I find myself steeping into the Timberland store, glancing through the People Tree products. As I delicately put the knitted jumper up against my face in the mirror, I can’t help but feel the soft fine hand woven fabric stroke my skin.

The People Tree products which are sold in Equa Clothing Ltd, Timberland, Topshop, Finnesse Life Style and It’s A Great Thing are very popular amongst their customers and by looking through the collection, you can easily see why. Each product is exclusive, original and unique as it is developed by the people who live in developing countries. And by People Tree giving the people in these countries the ability to work for what they like doing (with equal and fair opportunities), gives them the chance to afford the basic rations, food and water for themselves and their families.

Looking through the People Tree collection made me think about The Ethical Fashion Show which has recently passed in France. The 4-day event featured designers such as Isobel Lare and Emmeline Child, clothing by Le Queue du Chat and fair trade bags by Coll.Part, showcasing their take on eco fashion, while the Brazillan company Nahui Ollin produced their collection of exclusive recycled bags. It made me think about the purpose of fashion today; fashion is slowly moving on from being a fashion statement of wealth and power, but it is moving towards the essence of helping people through the clothes we wear.

As I said previously, the word designer doesn’t have the same meaning as it used to. Is the exclusivity of wearing something with a designer label printed on it is simply fading. The reality simply is, we are focusing more on improving the world we live in- as a society we are trying to help important causes throughout the world.

People Tree mission statement-

"To use Fashion as a tool to help the world’s marginalized people."

Last week when I went to Equa Boutique, to follow up on People Tree, i discovered that the whole store only stocked clothes which were produced under the principles of fair trade, providing total ethical fashion collections. Ethical designer labels such as Ciel, Edun, Loomstate and Delforte denim are stocked there, and many more, some I haven't even heard of.

As I browsed through the small boutique, spending most of my time looking through the Ciel collection, I was amazed how soft, delicate, and elegant all the pieces were. I distinctly remember the Ciel Cami dress in Red. The stunning silk ruby red dress, with simple adjustable straps; details of fine stitching and a delicate fabric which would simply drape over your body, was the best piece I found in the store. Priced at 170.00 I thought this garment was well worth the price- and even more so, because of its cause.

The boutique based in Islington was the best boutique I have discovered on my search so far. Along with the great service I recieved from the staff, I was able to proclaim my passion for fashion in many great collections, which was beyond a statement of power and wealth but for the good of the people.

Media Analysis: Music Publications

Spin, The Stool Pigeon and Clash magazine were just some of the music publications today that made my mind swivel with confusion. I never realised how many music magazines there were; but then again I only knew of NME, Kerrang and Q magazine. As our lecture proceeded about the industries views on men’s and women's alternative magazines, a debate suddenly started to arise on a topic which made the class somewhat intense. As we all know, the internet has evolved into a multi-million pound industry which is part of our everyday life; and the music downloading sector is gradually increasing, making music stores like HMV decrease in profit. And what makes it so successful is that it is cheap, quick and easy to access. I mean, why go to a store and purchase a CD for £12.99 when you can go on a website like iTunes (if you have an iPod) and download your music for around 70p or even by the album to download on your iPod for around £1.70. Sometimes the cheaper option can be more convenient. As I watched the class prolong this debate through the whole lecture, I could not help but think about the effects this has on music publication or even any publication in fact. For me, purchasing a magazine such as Vogue, Another or Wonderland is more personal and practical for my use when bought over a counter, but it is still essential for me to look at the magazines if I can on their websites to. Again it is free, easy and quick to do. Is this industry, which seems to be taken over by the internet, failing when publications and CDs are being sold over the counter? Is the internet becoming increasingly more popular when wanting to download music, rather than buying singles and albums at the store? And if it is, what is left for the businesses publishing all these publications?

Media Analysis: A social Act

I took to the stage with my group and you could see the nerves generating in our faces. All of us were murmuring under our breaths, trying to remember the lines and the correct timings to say our parts. But believe it or not, our performance was pretty outstanding. We took the image nylon portrayed, and the type of market consumer they aimed at to create a performance that received a standing ovation of about 10 people. Our performance in Alexia's lesson this week enabled us to present Nylon in an interactive form, displaying our creative efforts which, believe it or not, involved humour. But I must say the funniest part of all was me playing the part of a Nu Rave teenager. Imagine me dressed in extra tight fitted skinny jeans which make it impossible for me to breathe in; a bright green tight fitted shirt that meant being able to see me in the dark without the lights on was possible, and a headband across my head which was so tight, that meant all the circulation to my brain had stopped. It was not a pretty sight. But it put humour in the play. But I must say I understand why Alexia made us undergo a task like that. It was not only for the intense humiliation part of the act, but it was to gain an understanding of socio-demographics. I will never forget that tight fitted headband!

Fashion Journalism Week 4: "A Trend"

Over the past few weeks my mind has been set on discovering independent boutiques in Notting Hill and Carnaby Street. But before I move onwards with my search in other areas around London, the report I wrote on "trends" week 3 has been lingering in my mind. As I relax back in the leather chair in the Soho Hotel Bar, drinking complimentary cocktails from the bar-tender with my friends, we begin to discuss the rising of "trends" between designer brands, independent stores and the high street stores. Are designers failing? "It depends in what context you’re talking about." – Robert Sabet. As I asked my friend Robert this question, he seemed to be on his third glass of Rosé and eager to get his opinion across on this topic. In terms of failing, I am looking at the trends. As we know, high street stores are constantly generating new trends every 6-12 weeks, and some stores even faster. Now we all know that the high street stores get their inspiration from the catwalk, magazines, street fashion and around the world. But they base their concepts for a new trend idea within the store around what the designers are doing for their concept this season. But between the high street stores and the designer labels who is better at putting the trend of the season across? Last week when I was reading an article in the Guardian which focused on trends, it made me think about what the actual definition of a trend now is; and every week when I walk into a new fashion boutique I have discovered, I am amazed to see that there is nothing new, but everything is old. And by my research, a trend is meant to rely on a new piece – a new trend means something we have not yet encountered before. This article also talked about mainstream designers and how they are developing trends, but it also made me think about whether they are creating less innovative pieces than they used to. Which is also why I used the term "Are designers failing"? As a fashion journalism student at Epsom University of Creative Arts, debates arise all the time with the students and lecturers arguing their different points across about various topics. But an issue I want to put across is the concept of designers. Are they really successful when putting these ‘new’ ‘trends’ across? To be honest I don’t think they are. I mean when you think about it, can you actually think about a new inspirational trend now on the high streets which we have never come across before; can you think of a trend which looks into the future rather than the past? The only designers which I believe look more into the future when putting together their collections are Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano; and other than what these designers are creating, I have pretty much seen everything else before. I mean look at Christopher Kane for instance; don’t get me wrong, his work is brilliant, but this whole new rave theme; didn’t we see this before in the 80s? And by no means am I saying that designers are crap, because that is not the case; all I am saying is where are all the new futuristic trends? Technology is moving on, so why can’t fashion? I believe that some independent stores are picking up on this, which is why many designer-related independent boutiques are selling more upcoming designer and contemporary labels. Maybe the word ‘designer’ does not have as much power as it used to. I mean the high street stores seem to be taking over. And just to mention; why are not more designers taking on organic fashion. I mean I feel that organic clothing is becoming the new "trend"that we have all been missing.

Fashion Journalism Week 3: Carnaby Street

Picture taken of Carnaby Street There used to be a time when the term ‘a trend’ meant the new fashion item must have. But these days a trend is nothing apart from a fad, which simply fades out in matter of weeks. And when supposedly an ‘everlasting trend’ suddenly does fade out of fashion, it simply makes a return next season; and that is clearly not the definition of a trend. Although, this season I have noticed the rise of the body con; designers such as Herve Leger and Versace are perfect examples where designers focus on shaping the womens’ body through figure hugging couture pieces. Last week when I visited Mensah in Notting Hill, I discovered Liza Bruce, a contemporary designer. The collections consist of fine cotton jersey on mini dresses and fitted tops, which links her collection and the body con trend together. As I walk the streets of London my next steps lead to Carnaby Street to discover the rise of body con. Carnaby Street, the hidden shopping district behind Oxford Circus, is the famous location of small independent stores, which specialise in their own unique sense of style. In the 1960s this street was famous for the mix of young inspirational individuals, with their take on mod fashion and the new minis. As I walk down the cobble streets looking for someone who has taken on the body con trend, I can’t help but realise that everyone is wearing vintage pieces. The take on vintage clothing has expanded in Carnaby Street, with stores like Marshmallow Mountain spreading the style of the layering technique, a Marc Jacobs creation. Picture taken of Marshmallow Mountain in store Marshmallow Mountain is a small independent boutique which stocks an impressive collection of vintage clothes, shoes, bags, belts, jewellery and hats; an everlasting trend shop providing cutting-edge fashion pieces from the late 60s. This store is a great example of what the people on the streets of Carnaby are wearing. Not at all did I see pieces of waist-cinching dresses, but the shop was filled with oversized draping bits of material used on dresses to create a look of your own, through the effects of layering and accessorising. Vintage will always be a thing of the past, but again will always be something which is reinventing itself constantly. Is that what fashion is about now? Is it about re-introducing something old, rather than creating something new?

Media Analysis: A social performance

Last week I discussed social demographics and the effects they have on our lives. Where we live, the type of people we hang out with, our income and wealth and the type of education we have gained makes up our social divide in life. This week unfortunately I missed another stimulating lesson, filled with debates and disputes about our social categories. Although when I did come to class on Monday morning I was greeted with Alexia's assignment of the week. I remember describing Alexia's lessons – ‘entertaining as a play at the theatre,’ and for our next project, a play is what we need to perform. Based on the readers and editors of NYLON, my group and I have to act a short play showcasing Nylons target readers. If you know me already, you would be able to tell that the acting lessons I took as a child have not stayed with me until now. A misused talent you can say; hence the reason I never succeeded. Nylon is a great magazine for the artistic, fashionable and photographic person who is creative and inspirational. It is a magazine about the art world and reflects on reality, rather than a magazine which portrays a deceptive image to its consumers. As I wonder about my upcoming performance on Friday, I can say that it will give me an insight and understanding to Nylons consumer profile and who their general target customers are. I guess this will be a performance I will never forget!

Fashion Journalism Week 2: Another Day at Notting Hill

Small designer boutique Mensah located in Portobello Road is an exclusive store I discovered two months ago. It is a stylish, unique and innovative women’s-wear boutique specialising in contemporary and vintage clothing. Designer pieces date from the 1920s to the mid 1980s by Biba, Gucci, Ossie Clark and YSL. Contemporary designers include KIND, Manish Arora, Louis de Gamos and Romas Martin. As I walked in the store it reminded me of the same warm and comforting atmosphere as it did the first time I entered two months ago. The feeling was a much different experience than last week when I went to ‘one of a kind’; in this store you don’t feel so smothered by all the clutter and you are certain to find what you need without having to scuffle and fray through other pieces in your way. As I browsed through the collections in the store, I came across a red cashmere jumper with a detailed ribbing design around the collar and sleeve. Priced at £120 by Contemporary designer KIND I had to have it; a fabulous purchase which had to be made. Although my priority was to analyse the store, I found myself drifting in to another world of KIND clothing. As I sipped my signature hot chocolate from Starbucks, my eyes took a sudden glance through their exquisite collections of designer jackets they had available. Fitted tailored military style coats caught my interest. The Gucci modish jacket with gold button details and simple embellishment around the sleeve reminded me of a trend that I discovered on the runway for next season: Ralph Lauren, a prime example of the whole 1920s glamour, entwined with the 1920s masculine look. The Military trend which has been exposed for spring 2008 kept running through my mind as I scurried through the Mensah collection of coats. Mensah has a range of effortless fashion; it is the boutique which specialises in one-off exclusive pieces; a store which provides elite clothing for women.

Social Demographics

Social Demographics; a word I was not intensely familiarised with, until my critical analysis class on Thursday morning. This subject which caught my attention in class made me wonder, how a social class which we are categorised into, creates a divide through a social path we may want to pursue in. It all comes down to our race, gender, income, how educated we are, and the area we live in, which create our individual social economic grades. As I was listening to Alexia Economou in class and scribbling down the notes, I could not help but wonder; do these social economic grades and grade listing really justify the type of people that we are. And what I mean by this is if I was an A Grade-(which is also known as the upper middle class person which only caters to 2.7% of the population in Britain) does that mean I would only read The Times and The Observer on a daily basis or could I still be an upper class person and read a publication designed for the working class such as Heat Magazine. Magazines such as Vogue cater to the upper class and the upper lower class. Through the advertisements they use in their magazines which feature designer labels such as Yves Saint Laurent and written articles based on subjects like Gianfranco Ferre life in fashion; the editors are creating a magazine written to capture a fantasy and a dream / imaginary vision in their writing which the lower class thrive on. As I took the hour journey back home on the bus; I found myself flicking through Another magazine and Wonderland. Two magazines which I have not analysed before. These magazines made me think about which publications the stores tend to use to market their products. The market research which goes into finding the right publication majority of their consumers reads, also comes down to social demographics. As I flicked through the magazines I was not at all surprise that I did not come across an advertisement featuring Primark. Another magazine mostly features ads for Miss Sixty and Vivienne Westwood. You can generally see that they cater for the more artistic customer who may be into photography- Again by reading Another Magazine you can see the difference between Another and Heat or Another and Glamour. Although as I soon became aware of; these two magazines are exceedingly different to a magazine such as Vogue. There is a sense of reality and realism in these publications where vogue is surreal.

Fashion Journalism Week 1: Notting Hill

Picture of Shop owner at 'one of a kind' Notting Hill Fashion thrives on the latest trends, whether they are fads or a continuous fashion craze. It strongly depends on the biggest names in fashion to create an everlasting and implausible collection; even people on the streets contribute to trends which we see in most stores. By wearing our favourite brands it creates a status for ourselves and a society we are categorised into through the clothes we wear. But where do we go to be inspired? As I explore the streets of London within 10 weeks, I will be looking at boutiques, small independent companies and developing businesses. I will be analysing how these small independent stores connect with fashion on the runway and how they make an impact on society. First Stop Notting Hill As I walked through Notting Hill on Friday, I felt a slight joyfulness amongst majority of the people who were walking through the busy and crowded market stalls. People chatting and shouting in the streets, cars beeping their horns through the crowds and endless queues for the outdoor food stalls, was like a discovery through grand opens doors to a continuous road of great fashion finds. Shop owners were successfully getting the public to notice their products being sold, and their consumers were happily parting with their money for items which they believe are individual and key finds. Among all of the clothes, bags and accessories being sold, my main priority was analysing what people were wearing. Saddle Bags, Vintage Boots, Boy fit jumpers, Skinny jeans, Trilby hats, Vintage Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent blazers, Chic knit jumpers and 1950’s shift dresses were all things I discovered on my search. As I walked down the streets of Notting Hill Portobello Road with a grand Double Mocha Macchiato in my hand, I found myself steeping into ‘one of a kind’, a chic vintage store, filled with designer pieces dated from the late 1920’s elegance mixed with the 1980’s colourful style. Clothes draped along the walls, and couture pieces dangled from the ceiling, fur coats warped over the counters like the animals flaunting themselves in the zoo, endless shoes by Gina, Chanel, YSL, Christian Dior, Gucci and more, placed precisely around the shoe room. Every room was different to the next; it was as if it was a wardrobe showcasing some sort of an open gallery to the public. On the runway this season two main trends I came across were chunky knits and the colour purple; both which I noticed in store often. The shop owner spends his time finding couture pieces and selling them at a fraction of what they are worth but the key to effective visual merchandising his collection in store is obviously of great importance. There was a great collection of knitwear at the front of the store and with his shoe display; the use of different colour blocking was very strong. Strong and intense colours such as purples, pinks, yellows and oranges were shining the doors. This was a statement itself he made with the shoes; a trend he took from the runway to create this impact with colour. I remember this store quite well from The Clothes Show, where Louise Redknapp featured some of his recent fashion discoveries on the show. But I never imagined being smothered in a room with Soft cotton and Satin silk materials, some even with fine lace with jewels and beading applied. This was my first stop; and I felt lost in a fantastic discovery I found; not knowing where to look; or where to begin.

Media Analysis:A discussion today which kept me thinking.

This morning I woke up feeling rested and fabulous, on my way to a media analysis class at the playhouse. Although at the time I wondered why we were having such a critical module within the theatre, but eventually realised that our lesson today was as interesting as a play I would have paid to see. The lesson began with an interesting discussing about consumer, trade and contract publications and the different types of magazines that we come across more often on a daily basis. We then gradually drifted into discussions about how different types of magazines are being portrayed, how diverse some publications are with the style of writing used, and the different target audiences they are trying to attract. But one particular topic we discussed today in class, continually made me think about improvements I feel should be made for teenage magazines. Alexia Economou talked about how majority of teenage magazines can gradually effect and decrease the self esteem of a teen. While most teenage publications issue editorial pages about how to kiss a boy, or how to buy the latest products to look cool, it makes you think by analysising this how much confidence a teenager must still have after reading these articles. Is the type of teenage magazine which issues articles based on “ways to look cool” or “ways to impress boys” a good base in life for teenagers to reflect on? When reading such articles, is it a way of manipulating teens so when they mature they rely on ways of not impressing themselves but ways to impress others? Is this right? Throughout I couldn’t help but wonder how much more improvements teenage magazines need.

The beginning of an idea!

The beginning of my idea starts with inspiration. The beginnig of my 10 week blog starts with a subject that gets majority of people excited! What that idea is .... and what the beginning of my blog is....is a source of information that gets me searching.