Thursday, 3 April 2008
Black, black, black is everywhere to be seen. First at Yves Saint Laurent, then Balenciaga and now at Louis Vuitton. Instead of last season’s collection of patchwork on silhouettes, Marc Jacobs has produced an innovative collection, which can only be described as chic elegance. Coats in muted browns, knitwear in soft greys, splashes of mint on blouses and of course this season favourite colour BLACK on everything. The silhouettes are all about structure; although shapes are soft and less over-powering. But as always Marc Jacobs always seems to impress me. Balloon shape ¾ length trousers seems to be the main focus at Vuitton; whether in grey, camel or black, these trousers are a statement piece for next season. And lets not get started on the shoes; chunky, chunky, chunky. Nice touch.
Well what can I say? Seeing all these fantastic colours at John Galliano makes you want to buy the whole collection. Brilliant headgear, over-powering heels and retro prints brought you back to Galliano intricate land, filled with fantasy. His show was like watching a movie that took you through different eras; a movie you did not want to stop watching. Dresses and jackets in dusty pinks, vintage coats in royal and pale blues, blacks, greys, and burgundy on tights, blouses and coats Fantastic; bias cuts on dresses took me back to the Poiret period of soft lines and elegant shapes. Next to see…Galliano jewellery line, can’t wait.
For Spring/Summer 2008 we saw satin trousers and slim fitted jackets dressed with silk rouged blouses at Gianfranco Ferré, which in all respect, did not create any favours for the brand. We see a better collection for fall 2008, than what the belated Gianfranco Ferré team produced before. The show focuses on Ferré signature pieces of strapless little black dresses which showed exquisite craftsmanship. The shirts were not just plain ordinary shirts, but very modern and the style portrayed a sense of architecture with great geometric cuts. The tailoring was much better than last season, but to produce what Ferré did before he died, the creative team have much more work to do. Saying that, their slim fitted trousers, and sweeping A-line coats reminded me of the shapes we saw in the 80s, which is defiantly making a return for fall.
If you’re looking for a collection which encapsulates a sleek, sexy and diverse look, then look no further than at Lanvin. Alber Elbaz forced an innovative collection down the runway, in its simplest form. Although the silhouettes may have looked minimal, the excessive amount of jewellery portrayed a chic and modish look. The black plain wool jumpers, the silk black cocktail dresses and the patent and fur coat made this show just beautiful to look at. Everything created was intended for comfort, and it worked, because at the same time everything was sexy, especially the sheer neckline fitted strapless dress, with excessive amount of ruffle detail along the bodice, nipped in at the waist with a thin black belt; just amazing.
- ▼ April 2008 (4)