Monday, 8 December 2008
Once again Marc Jacobs’ shows an opulent collection that sweeps across the stage at New York fashion week. The chaos, the spectacle but still a subliminal event and as usual he refuses to show nothing less than making his ‘Marc’. Broadway, Hollywood, war time glamour or Little House on the Prairie may have been the message but nevertheless a 1940s influence could have been to. Or maybe it was a trip to Lisbon in Portugal in June 08 that concluded such a show of colourful raindrops that washed over the stage. There are many meanings which can be derived from this collection of mind numbing distraction, another being Mary Poppins’ stepping into her new deconstructed power suit on her way to the Bahamas. Whatever the meaning, it was clear by his fellow entourage of celebrity faces that this was not a show to be missed. As Winona Ryder, Elijah Wood, Lady Victoria Beckham, Jennifer Lopez, Martha Stewart and Lauren Hutton looked on, Marc Jacobs proceeded on with the show behind a hall of mirrors. Each piece that trickled down the runway was more exotic and exuberant than the last. An explosion of forest greens, pastel lilacs, fuchsia, petrol blues, soft pinks, marigolds, beiges, chalks, maroon reds and ivory dispersed on stage. Like a parade of exotic ingredients with an overarching elusive and rich colour palette, it simply made your mouth water. Model after model, there was so much to see and instantly it was clear that he was taking various elements of settler America and transporting them into the future where flamboyant colours, mid length skirts, lurex plaid sash belts, flower house prints and the pant suit is key. Gibson Girl hats and layers upon layers of wrap skirts swayed to the rhythm of ‘Rhapsody in Blue’ on the soundtrack. Gingham shirts, metallic tweed jackets and sleek tapered dress shirts played to the multi-layered repertoire of mix-match, while a whole new world of accessory triumph unravelled. No other haberdashery is quite such a treasure trove than what Marc Jacobs laid out on stage today. Sash, Obi and Zona style belts left the eye roaming for more and an amazing degrade of eccentric eyewear, earrings, chunky necklaces and oriental bangles left the unfortunate side effect of making other New York designers look bloodless. His clothes simply have an energy on the catwalk that know one can match. In it’s relative tameness and intriguing air of Hollywood glamour, this collection reverted back to his fall 2007 ready-to-wear show, of sexy in a provocative way induced with an extravagant and flirty colour story, but the slimmed lined cropped trousers have been sadly forgotten and replaced by the mid length ruffle skirt. A collaboration of embellish trouser suits and exotic prints on aprons distinguish that country girl flair, while metallic strips, floral, plaids and abstract prints simply make you hunger over his clothes. The quilted chain handbags and dreamlike shoes were just as sublime, leaving a certain power women image to such and extraordinary and beautiful collection.
Thursday, 23 October 2008
Subversive, defined, sleek tailoring through the ages; A John Waters creation It’s not very often that we are swayed by the appearance of film directors, but there is something very enchanting about John Waters sense of style and yet it’s very chic, simple and understated. It’s not only his quirky wares and peculiar moustache which separates him from the norm; it’s his whole image and retro persona which makes him a style icon. He always seems to work traditional tailoring and old classics in a modernised way, which is why we should delve into his wardrobe of timeless staples. Think D&G Spring/Summer 2009; a sleek silhouette, their rendition of menswear classics, sophisticated, modern and contemporary; or Jill Sanders collections which represents exquisite minimalist precisions and fine tailoring. Work Brooks Brothers cigarette trousers with a Comme de Garcon crisp white shirt, a Paul Smith waistcoat, brown leather brogues and a Yoji Yamamoto tie. The outcome of this look is classically stylish and appropriately quirky. Accessories your outfit with the unforgettable bow tie, Anglo American eccentric eyewear and a traditional holdhall bag, with your hair sleeked back for a sharper look. Remember it’s all in the detail. Influence and Homage? As unashamed fans of Junya Watanabe, it goes without saying that their sleek tapered blazers and pleated front trousers for Spring/Summer 2009 are the essence of timeless pieces season after season. And lets not forget Yoji Yamamoto; they don’t just call him the master for nothing. Opt for a micro pattern Moschino jacket when attending the Frieze Art Fair in London or a silk lapel jacket worn over a coloured shirt when at the Martin Margiela exhibition in Antwerp. Dress down in a wool Burberry trench coat, shortened cigarette trousers, brogues and white t-shirt for lunch at the Freemans in New York, Lower East Side. These are not just timeless pieces, there an investment for your wardrobe when it comes to masterful tailoring. Take clips from John Waters 1988 success movie ‘Hairspray’, on how to wear the season’s slim lined suit, narrow lapels and the famous winklepickers. Mr Waters has always worked his lean demure look with the same quirkiness his brought to all of his movies. His trick: keeping things sleek and simple with an understated appeal.
Thursday, 18 September 2008
The Debutante Jacob Kimmie collection ‘The Debutante’ for Spring/Summer 2009 is a collection designed for the new generation. A collection made for women who represent chic elegance and expect nothing more than feminine tailoring with a modern twist. The overall feel in the collection seemed flirty, showcasing sheer blouses emphasising his quirky wares. The prints designed by Christopher Trevis made the clothes seem more playful and dynamic; a longing need for a debutante making her first steps into society. Soft tailoring was far from severe and skimmed the body and drop-waist dresses gave the impression he was highly influenced by the 1920s. Bias cutting on dresses introduced romanticism and the explosion of orange and pinks towards the end of the show, showed us a new meaning of sexy but not in an overtly overstated way. It was more about simplicity, elegance and youth. On closer inspection the flowers placed in one of the models hair represented sophistication in a lady finally becoming a women.
Thursday, 3 April 2008
Black, black, black is everywhere to be seen. First at Yves Saint Laurent, then Balenciaga and now at Louis Vuitton. Instead of last season’s collection of patchwork on silhouettes, Marc Jacobs has produced an innovative collection, which can only be described as chic elegance. Coats in muted browns, knitwear in soft greys, splashes of mint on blouses and of course this season favourite colour BLACK on everything. The silhouettes are all about structure; although shapes are soft and less over-powering. But as always Marc Jacobs always seems to impress me. Balloon shape ¾ length trousers seems to be the main focus at Vuitton; whether in grey, camel or black, these trousers are a statement piece for next season. And lets not get started on the shoes; chunky, chunky, chunky. Nice touch.
Well what can I say? Seeing all these fantastic colours at John Galliano makes you want to buy the whole collection. Brilliant headgear, over-powering heels and retro prints brought you back to Galliano intricate land, filled with fantasy. His show was like watching a movie that took you through different eras; a movie you did not want to stop watching. Dresses and jackets in dusty pinks, vintage coats in royal and pale blues, blacks, greys, and burgundy on tights, blouses and coats Fantastic; bias cuts on dresses took me back to the Poiret period of soft lines and elegant shapes. Next to see…Galliano jewellery line, can’t wait.
For Spring/Summer 2008 we saw satin trousers and slim fitted jackets dressed with silk rouged blouses at Gianfranco Ferré, which in all respect, did not create any favours for the brand. We see a better collection for fall 2008, than what the belated Gianfranco Ferré team produced before. The show focuses on Ferré signature pieces of strapless little black dresses which showed exquisite craftsmanship. The shirts were not just plain ordinary shirts, but very modern and the style portrayed a sense of architecture with great geometric cuts. The tailoring was much better than last season, but to produce what Ferré did before he died, the creative team have much more work to do. Saying that, their slim fitted trousers, and sweeping A-line coats reminded me of the shapes we saw in the 80s, which is defiantly making a return for fall.
If you’re looking for a collection which encapsulates a sleek, sexy and diverse look, then look no further than at Lanvin. Alber Elbaz forced an innovative collection down the runway, in its simplest form. Although the silhouettes may have looked minimal, the excessive amount of jewellery portrayed a chic and modish look. The black plain wool jumpers, the silk black cocktail dresses and the patent and fur coat made this show just beautiful to look at. Everything created was intended for comfort, and it worked, because at the same time everything was sexy, especially the sheer neckline fitted strapless dress, with excessive amount of ruffle detail along the bodice, nipped in at the waist with a thin black belt; just amazing.
Wednesday, 26 March 2008
In Paris, Christian Lacroix endured us with his ready-to-wear collection for fall 2008. A cream short sleeve bubble shape coat opened the show, which immediately created the same excitement we usually get from his couture collection. Bows on dresses, tulip shape skirts and feathers placed on sleeves and hemlines was only a fraction of what made this show exciting; my attention slowly focused on the series of satin dresses which proceeded down the runway in purple, reds, lime greens, fuchsia and orange; absolutely fascinating. This opulent collection was very much young and modern. Not only was the funnel neck coats incredibly and structurally designed, but the vibrant solid block colours on silhouettes, made Christian Lacroix show quirky and exciting.
Inspired by Queen Victoria, the Duke of Wellington and the Indian Empire, Alexander McQueen presented one of his most desirable fashion shows yet for fall 2008. Dark, Mysterious and powerful looking models emerged with huge backcombed hair, which set the scene of the golden age. Black lace on skirts under the layers of petticoat and ballerina style dresses created a gothic fairytale story, and the black skinny high-waisted trousers with a sharp tailored double breasted jacket contributed to this style; a style so demeaning, it turned into something so exquisite. A level of beautiful craftsmanship created silhouettes which represented elegance and a feeling of romance. This enchanting story led us into an incredible fantasy of Indian couture. The models were converted into alluring princesses wrapped in Indian diadem and diamonds. But what caught my attention was the marvellous red strapless dress with endless layers. Gold’s contributed to this style of medieval couture. This historical collection was more than just glorious, it was beyond magnificent and beyond extravagant.
For Fall 2008 Nicolas Ghesquiere focused on the modernised version of the sheath black cocktail dress. Another season and Ghesquiere has re-introduced futuristic sculptured dresses with rubber, latex and plastics. A vision was to make everything light; a collection which was to be formal and to look like it is designed with a simple touch. Forget the ruffles and volumes of material; Ghesquiere focused on what he thought was simple. Skirts were slit to the thigh and rubber coats which looked like they were soaked in water, were designed to create a style which can only be described as futuristically sexy. This was not a fetish, but very modern and wearable, especially with the stunning silver jewellery the models were wearing.
Monday, 10 March 2008
Stefano Pilati blessed the catwalk for fall 2008, with a futuristic collection which made me think Rigorous Sexuality. Model after model the collection portrayed continuous elegance and sharp structured tailoring. Julianne Moore, Kayne West and Vanity Fair’s Elizabeth Saltzman were all there to witness his talent of geometric angles on tweeds and felts he used on skirts and coats. A contemporary collection which was very sharp at the top with bowl cut wigs the models were wearing to the freedom at the bottom, with movement in the clothes. His idea of creating a futuristic show, slowly made me think 21st century robots on a catwalk, maybe it was the look of the models which created a dark movement with the sleek dark sunglasses cut across there eyes, with there full black painted lips. But still you recognise the fantastic appeal of the clothes, like the gorgeous tweed pencil skirt with a royal blue hemline, and the best thing was there was a jacket to match. The use of Donegal tweeds, cashmere, Tokyo couture silk and Flock made this collection what it was…. AMAZING.
- ► April 2008 (4)