Monday, 8 December 2008
Once again Marc Jacobs’ shows an opulent collection that sweeps across the stage at New York fashion week. The chaos, the spectacle but still a subliminal event and as usual he refuses to show nothing less than making his ‘Marc’. Broadway, Hollywood, war time glamour or Little House on the Prairie may have been the message but nevertheless a 1940s influence could have been to. Or maybe it was a trip to Lisbon in Portugal in June 08 that concluded such a show of colourful raindrops that washed over the stage. There are many meanings which can be derived from this collection of mind numbing distraction, another being Mary Poppins’ stepping into her new deconstructed power suit on her way to the Bahamas. Whatever the meaning, it was clear by his fellow entourage of celebrity faces that this was not a show to be missed. As Winona Ryder, Elijah Wood, Lady Victoria Beckham, Jennifer Lopez, Martha Stewart and Lauren Hutton looked on, Marc Jacobs proceeded on with the show behind a hall of mirrors. Each piece that trickled down the runway was more exotic and exuberant than the last. An explosion of forest greens, pastel lilacs, fuchsia, petrol blues, soft pinks, marigolds, beiges, chalks, maroon reds and ivory dispersed on stage. Like a parade of exotic ingredients with an overarching elusive and rich colour palette, it simply made your mouth water. Model after model, there was so much to see and instantly it was clear that he was taking various elements of settler America and transporting them into the future where flamboyant colours, mid length skirts, lurex plaid sash belts, flower house prints and the pant suit is key. Gibson Girl hats and layers upon layers of wrap skirts swayed to the rhythm of ‘Rhapsody in Blue’ on the soundtrack. Gingham shirts, metallic tweed jackets and sleek tapered dress shirts played to the multi-layered repertoire of mix-match, while a whole new world of accessory triumph unravelled. No other haberdashery is quite such a treasure trove than what Marc Jacobs laid out on stage today. Sash, Obi and Zona style belts left the eye roaming for more and an amazing degrade of eccentric eyewear, earrings, chunky necklaces and oriental bangles left the unfortunate side effect of making other New York designers look bloodless. His clothes simply have an energy on the catwalk that know one can match. In it’s relative tameness and intriguing air of Hollywood glamour, this collection reverted back to his fall 2007 ready-to-wear show, of sexy in a provocative way induced with an extravagant and flirty colour story, but the slimmed lined cropped trousers have been sadly forgotten and replaced by the mid length ruffle skirt. A collaboration of embellish trouser suits and exotic prints on aprons distinguish that country girl flair, while metallic strips, floral, plaids and abstract prints simply make you hunger over his clothes. The quilted chain handbags and dreamlike shoes were just as sublime, leaving a certain power women image to such and extraordinary and beautiful collection.
- ▼ 2008 (13)